Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their children are reluctant to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to learn these tales and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
